Taieri Recreational Tramping Club

Jack carrying timber

Left: Taieri Recreational Tramping Club member Jack Merrilees with some material for the track.

The Ministry of Youth Affairs Conservation Corps based with the DOC filed Centre in Dunedin has been making steady progress on the boardwalk to the Leith Saddle. When completed this boardwalk will be about 1.6km in length and pass through unique forest featuring miro, rimu and the mountain cedar.

The logistics of carrying the timber up the ridge to the work site is a major obstacle to speedy progress. Recently however this task has been made lighter through the voluntary efforts of some local tramping clubs.

The corps is especially indebted to the WEA over 50s tramping club and the Taieri Recreational Tramping Group members who carried tonnes of timber up the boardwalk to the work site over two work days recently.

Thanks also to the generous contributions of two major Dunedin businesses, training funding  from the Ministry of Youth Affairs and expert help and materials from Department of Conservation Field Centre. Soon interpretation plaques will be in place, a contribution from a major sponsor. Some sponsorship is still needed to complete the boardwalk. Please contact David Blair, Department of Conservation, Dunedin. – Dunedin Star Midweek, Wed 7/4/1993

In 1876 a report was written for the Dunedin City Council outlining the various options available for the supply of water to the low-lying areas in the city. The two options available were the Leith Valley supply which was to be very expensive, or the Silverstream supply which would be cheap and effective but would supply water to only the low levels.

In December 1877, during the on-going debate over the two systems there came a dry spell and Ross Creek Reservoir was so low that a fire in the city drained the reservoir. This incident served to motivate a decision and in December 1877 the Silverstream project was decided on.

By 1880 13 miles of water race was constructed out of a total of 18 miles and in 1881 it consisted of 29 km of winding open earth ditch 3 to 4 feet across, timber sluices, tunnels, weirs and steel pipes. It began at the top weir on Silver Stream and wound around the western slopes of Swampy Summit, Flagstaff and Three Mile Hill to the Southern Reservoir in Kaikorai Valley. It was opened on 15th December, 1881. All eastern tributaries of Silver Stream from the top weir to the Three Mile Hill Road were diverted into the open race by small masonry inlets.

Water shortages still recurred from time to time and it was soon found that the Silverstream scheme was not as wonderful as previously thought. In times of heavy rain the open water-race could not cope with the volume of water while there was not enough storage at the Southern Reservoir for a long period of heavy draw-off.

In 1895 it was decided that additional pumping and storage was required. The final location for a pumping station was at Powder Creek. In 1920 an electric pump was installed at the bottom weir, pumping water up a pipeline and into the water-race when needed. Apart from in 1890, it was not used again until 1928. By 1933 the population growth and the increase in water use made it practical to appoint a full-time attendant at the pumping station.

Since the early 1940s, land subsidence and the need for constant maintenance resulted in much of the open water-race being replaced with pipeline. The water-race in this area of tracks was the only major part that was not piped. Following a severe flood in 1957, the water-race above the pumping station was closed. After this, water for the race was pumped from the pumping station directly up the hill into the open water race.

The Silver Stream Water-Race was abandoned in the late 1960s. The current pumping station moves water along a buried pipeline following a new route to the Southern Reservoir.

In the late 1980s the Track Clearing Group began to re-open and develop the Silver Stream Water-Race Tracks. This group, with the assistance from the WEA over 50s Tramping Club continues to do great work in maintaining these tracks. The late Steve Amies was the founder of both groups and instrumental in re-opening the tracks.

Other matters receiving attention during this time were the afforestation of the water reserves and the detection and prevention of pollution. Considerable planting was done around the Leith and Silverstream catchments. The aim of this policy was commercial as well as functional. It was claimed that afforestation kept down noxious weeds, kept the area free from stock and rabbits, and increased the efficiency of the area as a water catchment as well as increasing the beauty of the country.

Since 1948 the open water race has been progressively replaced with a pipeline. The catchment lies to the West of the Flagstaff-Silverpeak divide, and comprises 4275 hectares which is largely council owned with much of it in native bush, some in tussock and some in exotic plantation.

– Adapted From City Forests Ltd hard copy information sheet and DoC Silver Stream Water-Race Tracks.

In Leith Valley, where Otago’s first industry – sawmilling – is reputed to have started about the 1860s, is the start of the old Pineapple Track.
Originally, it was named Ross Track, after Archibald Hilson Ross, who owned most of the land in the vicinity. In the early 1920s, Mr Oscar Balk, first president of the Otago Tramping Club, led parties of trampers up this route. At the top of a rather steep section, the parties would stop to rest and often refresh themselves with a tin of pineapple. This tin was sometimes left hanging on a tree or fence, and the track came to be called the Pineapple Track.
The line of the Pineapple Walkway has deviated from the original track in places to provide more scenic variation.
The original vegetation of the area has been modified as a result of early milling, burning and stock grazing, but remnants of the milled species (podocarps) still remain. Rimu, miro, totara and matai are found in isolated pockets, mainly in damp gullies. Even so, the overall distribution of plant species retains some semblance of natural order with the larger forest trees growing at lower altitudes. Podocarp broad-leaved forest type occurs with shrub species which grade out into Dracophyllum shrub land and ultimately tussock grassland communities on the summit area.
Some common plants: fuchsia, pepper tree, lemonwood, broadleaf, totara, five’finger, wineberry, lancewood, Muehlenbeckia, Dracophyllum, Coprosma, Hebe, and wild spaniard tussock.
THere are many varieties of birds in the bush areas where there is an ample food supply to sustain many nectar-, berry-, and insect-eating native birds.
Some of these are: New Zealand pigeon, bellbird, fantail, tomtit, brown creeper, tui, silvereye, rifleman and pipit.

P N Johnson, Botany Division, DSIR, Dunedin March 1987

Quarantine Island has a fenced 1.4 ha of low Halls totara – broadleaved forest in excellent condition, plus other native scrub and coastal communities. …

Quarantine and Goat Islands owe their origin to former spurs drowned with the sinking of valleys now occupied by Otago Harbour. Both were used for quarantine purposes in early days of European settlement, and are Crown Land, formerly managed by Health Department. Goat Island has now largely reverted to native low forest and scrub. … Quarantine Island is leased to the St Martins Island community, who maintain a house and other buildings on the eastern headland, and graze sheep over most of the island, except in a fenced-off portion of bush, facing south at the western end. Historical remnants persist in the form of one of the old quarantine buildings, a small graveyard, chimney and flagpole remnants and old wrecks at the boat landing. The island is c. 17 ha in area, and reaches 58 m at its summit. There are two pylons on the crest, carrying electricity from Port Chalmers to Portobello.

Broadleaved – totara forest. This comprises most of the c. 1.4 ha fenced-off area to which sheep do not have access. The canopy, mostly about 4m tall, comprises Halls totara, broadleaf, ngaio, kohuhu, lancewood, peppertree and divaricating shrubs. These last two become more common in the understorey, especially Melicope simplex and Coprosma areolata. Traces remain of shrubs which would previously have been more common: Corokia cotoneaster and Helichrysum aggregatum, while the abundance of mahoe saplings 1m tall indicates that this species will become more common in future. Ground cover is dense, despite the dry stony soil, with Asplenium lyallii, shield fern, Carex forsteri and Libertia ixioides. Creepers are also abundant below and upon the shrubs, especially Scandia, Calystegia, climbing rata, Parsonsia and Clematis paniculata. Condition of this forest is very much better than adjacent grazed forest, or any similar forest remnants on mainland sites on Otago Peninsula.

Cabbage tree – coprosma – totara forest. An eastern portion of the fenced-off bush, probably more open at the time stock were excluded, has cabbage trees above a mixture of windswept totara and Coprosma propinqua scrub. Former grassy openings illustrate the process of regrowth of scrub and forest.  The grasses browntop and cocksfoot of the former pasture are being invaded by bidibid, Coprosma propinqua shrubs, and the tall palatable grass Hierochloe redolens.

Flax, some of it possibly planted, is establishing vigorously from seedlings, even among long rank grass, and there are healthy saplings 1m tall of Olearia avicenniaefolia, lancewood, kohuhu and Hebe elliptica.

Coprosma – mixed scrub. Shady faces of the southernmost headland have dense 2-3m scrub of Coprosma propinqua, Halls totara, Melicope, kowhai, ngaio and creepers (mostly Muehlenbeckia australis).

Flax – Hebe scrub. Above the sea shore, in a zone below forest or in patches below pasture, flax grows densely with Hebe elliptica shrubs, and scattered ngaio trees. Patches of bracken are present on some small spurs.

Pasture. On the island crest the main components are browntop, crested dogstail and white clover. Patches of rushes (Juncus gregiflorus, J distegus) occur on moist gentle slopes. Dry crests encourage infestations of barley grass and Scotch thistle (especially common at the south-east end). On sunny faces, Rytidosperma unarede and sweet vernal are common grasses and there are a few patches of silver tussock on upper parts of northern faces. Western faces hold thin, dry, erodible soils between rock outcrops and ledges. Grazing here is heavy, so that the native coastal tussock Poa astonii is reduced to a stubble.

Carex sedgeland. A few small seeps have tussocks of Carex appressa and in one place the tall blue coastal sedge Carex trifida which is of very local occurrence on Otago coasts.

Coastal rocky banks. Some of these are draped with native ice plant, though trampling and grazing prevent this moving up-slope onto ground accessible to sheep. Poa astonii tussock and Linum monogynum are characteristic of rocky outcrops, with other native herbs such as Wahlenbergia gracilis. Easter orchid (Earina autumnalis) surives as a clump atop one northern coastal detached boulder. Crumbling loess banks near the houses have become covered with garde escapes – wallflower, shrubby stonecrop, marguerite daisies and periwinkle.

Coastal herb field in wave-splashed zones. There are small areas of turfy coastal herbs such as Toula dioica, Puccinellia stricta, Crassula moschata, native celery and glsswort. Beach heads become colonised by Atriplex hastata growing among drift and flotsam.

Island at NW corner. Being inaccessible to sheep, this little island illustrates the density and diversity of native plants which would otherwise occupy all opens sites close to the coast. Above a fringe of coastal herb-field is a terrace sward of knobby club-rush, holy-grass, Elymus, Dichelachne and Linum. The rocky sides have dense low Hebe elliptica, tussocks of Poa astonii, mats of native ice plant and the coastal fern Asplenium obtusatum. On the crest, compact shrubs of Coprosma propinqua shelter an infestation of ivy and periwinkle.

Planted trees. As well as the usual macrocarpas typically planted for shelter, there are groups of pines (Scots pine round the graveyard, bishop pine and radiata on the SW grassy promontory). There is a line of Arizona cypress here too. Along the north side are a few trees of Lawsons Cupress, at least two trees of brush wattle on one spur, and a few kowhais which have survived despite the crude netting fences which one protected them. One red beech has been planted near the summit. None of these tree species appear to be spreading naturally.

Tunnel exit on beach

The Tunnel Beach Walkway, one of the most popular scenic walks around Dunedin will be officially opened by the Minister of Lands, Mr Elworthy, on March 16. (1983).

Access to Tunnel Beach has been negotiated by the Lands and Survey Department with the farmer who owns the land the walkway crosses.

The advantage to the farmer of the walkway is that under the Walkways Act he can be compensated if there is damage done and the access can be controlled. For example, the Tunnel Beach Walkway will be closed during lambing.

…

The steps down the tunnel are worn and water seeps through it so concrete steps will be poured before the official opening.

The Tunnel Beach Walkway is a coastal walk, descending a line of seacliffs south of St Clair where the wild Pacific breakers have carved sheer headlands, sea stacks and arches, and the wind has sculptured extraordinary shapes.

From the road end the track descends across green pasture and within a few minutes reaches the clifftops above Tunnel Beach.

The rock underfoot is the soft Caversham sandstone, an extensive thick sediment laid down during the sea’s encroachment of the Dunedin area 20 million years ago. The sandstone was generally overlain by other sediments, but near here lava from the Dunedin volcano flowed over the sandstone itself. This occurred about a dozen million years ago. The soft nature of the almost uniform sandstone makes walking too close to the cliff-edge a dangerous practice, but has also allowed the magnificent carving both by humans and by nature that is in evidence here.

At Tunnel Beach the rock is seen in detail. Careful examination will reveal shell fragments and with luck a fossil such as a brachiopod shell or echinoderm (sea urchin) or even bones of an extinct whale could be found.

At the top of the tunnel and on the promontories, the rock supports a community of salt-resistant species including Austral spleenwort, Selliera sp and Samolus sp. Species that occur further up the slope do not grow here as they cannot cope with the sea water that splashes up during the high seas that can batter this stretch of coastline.

The tunnel was dug in the 1870s by workmen employed by John Cargill, a son of Captain William Cargill, and who farmed the area. It’s reputed to have been a birthday present to his daughter.

The Cargill families found seclusion and shelter on the beach at the foot of the tunnel steps.

The swift flowing current, with is load of sand and erosive potential, heads up the coast just beyond the extremities of this little bay. It must have deterred all but the strongest swimmer from entering the water. At low tide the sandy beach makes an attractive setting for picnics, with the deeply cleft sandstone buttresses towering above. Some are intricately carved, some lie scattered as blocks already tumbled to the beach. Needless to say, common sense dictates where to sit in safety.

Some of the smaller boulders beneath the cliff are derived from the lava floors above, or from Blackhead, a headland of down-thrown volcanic rock being quarried to the south-east.

Vertical rusty streaks of iron-staining make a cross-cross pattern with the near horizontal traces of each successively deposited layer, called “bedding planes”, visible on the cliff faces.

Caves and sea-arches are eroded into the cliffs and an arch at the southern edge of Tunnel Beach, when seen from the walkway above is an excellent example showing the formation of a “stack”.

When the arch has finally eroded and collapsed, the leg on the right will stand free of the mainland just as the stacks off the northern edge of the beach do. Horizontal bedding visible on these stacks suggests that these are still in situ and are not blocks that have fallen from elsewhere.

Amongst a group of trees atop the cliffs, Cargills Castle awaits further depredation by time, vandalism and weather. It was built in 1876 for Edward Cargill, another son of the founder of the Province, Captain William Cargill; and a Mayor of Dunedin 1879-98. Originally called “The Cliffs” it was not long before the Italian-designed building was given its present name by locals. It was one of the first concrete buildings in Otago.

The “castle” was of 21 rooms and cost £14,000 to erect. It was nearly completely destroyed by fire in 1892 and although rebuilt by 1923 – “the biggest white elephant in Dunedin” according to one building contractor – was unfit for habitation.

In more recent years there have been several attempts to instill new life into the building, including an opera venture and plans for a tavern, but all to no avail.

– Dunedin Midweek, Wednesday, Feb 23, 1983.

The heavy-duty seat at the look-out down the Jim Freeman’s track has been named the Douglas Seat (it was at a point where there were lots of Douglas first.

– from the Friends of Ben Rudd’s Newsletter, No. 5 12/98/2000

Point of access; Double Hill Road – 500m on right beyond gate below Forest HQ. 45 minutes return. Moderate.

The Seacliff Mental Hospital was competed in 1884 and at the time was the largest public building in New Zealand. Water for the complex was originally supplied from a spring behind Warrington. However, as the hospital developed, this supply became inadequate. An alternative supply was sought and it was decided that a dam and pipeline at Double Hill would be suitable.

As a consequence, this dam and an associated pipeline were built around 1912 for the purposes of supplying water to the Seacliff Hospital. The dam is some 6m high and approximately 1.5m thick at the base. It is estimated that 80 cu m of concrete were necessary to build the structure. In addition, the construction required 17,000m of 150mm pipe to link the dam with the storage tanks at Seacliff. The flow was gravity fed, the dam being at a greater elevation than the hospital.

All equipment to build the dam and pipeline was packed into the upper reaches of the Whaitiripaka Stream on horseback or horse-drawn sled. The pipeline was laid along the stream-bed to Evansdale Glen and thence over Porteous Hill to Omimi and Seacliff.

Problems were associated with the scheme however, primarily due to silting up of the dam and a subsequent loss of capacity. The tragic fire at the Seacliff Hospital in 1942, which resulted in the loss of 37 lives prompted greater concern over the reliability of the Double Hill water supply. Corrosion of the pipeline and unstable ground over Porteous Hill compounded the problems.

An auxiliary water supply was installed at Evansdale in 1944 to augment the supply during the summer period. However the condition of the pipeline continued to deteriorate. Major repairs to the pipeline were considered too expensive and in 1952 it was replaced by a new line from Cherry Farm. Thus ended the useful life of the Double Hill dam and water supply.

Since 1981 the N.Z. Forest Service staff have improved access to the damaged sections  of Whaitiripaka Stream where remnants of the water supply scheme remain. The walk to the dam is quite short and well worth a visit in light of its historical background.

Mapoutahi Pa occupies a small predipitous headland with a commanding view of the entraces to Blueskin Bay and Purakanui Inlet. Remains of the home terraces and defensive earthworks can still be seen.  

The date that the pa was built and the details of its earliest inhabitants have been lost from Maori myth. However its role in the 18th century Kai Tahu quarrels and feudings is well known. Continue Reading »

Sir Truby King, a man of many parts, was for some 31 years superintendent of amental hospital at the village of Seacliff. The setting was superb, but the enterprise got off to the worst possible start. A magnificent-looking series of stone buildings was designed by R A Lawson, whose commission was at the time the largest ever paid in the colony. In Scottish Baronial style, the three-storeyed Oamaru-stone buildings were modelled on the Norwich County Asylum in England, with a 50m tower. Criticism was not limited to the design – day-rooms received little sun, bedroom windows were too high to see the view, and for the 1,273 doors there was an embarrassing diversity of keys. The very foundations proved woefully inadequate for the notoriously unstable site. Not long after the £78,000 contract had been completed, a royal commission was set up which criticised both architect and builder. For all the outcries through the years over the unsafe nature of the buildings, it was not until 1972, nearly a century later, that the last of the patients were finally evacuated to Cherry Farm.

King transformed into a hospital a place the public had hitherto regarded as a gaol. After he became superintendent in 1888, patients were given outside work, greater liberty and more exercise. The use of violence by warders was banned. The Seacliff farm flourished and King’s careful attention to livestock and seed selection drew the resentment of neighbouring farmers who envied his success at A & P shows. Poultry was raised and in 1903 the patients began a fishing enterprise that fed the asylum twice a week and supplied other institutions throughout the South Island. Even attentive to staff, Truby King emulated Johnny Jones in buying land and helping them to finance their own homes. It was while King was at Seacliff that he recognised the importance of nutrition both for mental patients and, as an adjunct to his rearing of cattle, for children.

The asylum’s most notable inmate was Lionel Terry (1847-1952), an Englishman educated at Eton and Oxford who tramped the country in 1901 lecturing on the perils of New Zealand being taken over by the Chinese. In his book of poetry, The Shadow, he extolled the virtues of “pure … unpolluted  northern blood” and saw in the quiet industry of the Chinese a subtle attempt to conquer the country by weakening the Anglo-Saxons with “luxury and idleness”. His book did not sell well. On learning this he made his point more dramatically by walking the streets of Wellington to find and shoot an elderly Chinese, who, he reasoned, was too old to care much about living anyway. He promptly confessed and wrote to the Governor complaining of “alien invaders”. Terry tapped an extensive well of anti-Chinese resentment and his trial caused a sensation. His sentence to death in 1905 was commuted to one of ife imprisonment and he was removed here after setting fire to the gaol at Lyttelton. He escaped on numerous occasions, to be fed, clothed and concealed by his many admirers, some 50,000 of whom signed a petition for his release. Finally King offered Terry a degree of liberty conditional on his not escaping again, terms he accepted for the rest of his life. At the time of his death here in 1952 he wore long flowing robes and long flowing hair, and was convinced he was the second Messiah. (Some of Terry’s poems are in the museum at Waikouaiti.)

Some History. (Can’t recall where I got it from. Sorry.)

Huriawa Peninsula. The peninsula was a superb natural pa site. Volcanic in origin, it rises sheer from the sea and had the twin blessings of a reliable spring and a small cove on its northern side where canoes could be safely beached. It was selected for this purpose in c. 1730 to serve Ngai Tahu under Te Wera, but had in all probability previously been used by Ngati Mamoe. It has excellent views to the north and south, and its natural defences of sea and cliffs is ideally suited for use as a pa.
it was originally call Pa-Katata, a name which is now used only for the rocky knob at the seaward point.

Te Wera had only just been chosen as chief by his Te Ruahikihiki hapu when they became embroiled in continual strife with his belligerent cousins, Taoka and Moki II. Trouble began when Te Wera was accused of practising makutu (wizardry) on his kinsfolk and of killing them. First he sought sanctuary at Purakaunui where Te Rehu, his brother-in-law held sway. Attacked there, the pair made a miraculous escape and arrived at Huriawa to find that a tangi for them had already begun. Together they exacted vengeance and in turn Taoka arrived at Huriawa and proceeded to lay siege. Taoka came by sea and set up camp on the sandspit, Olunepouwera, opposite the peninsula at the mouth of the Waikouaiti river. For six months the siege continued, as the pa had its own water supply, a large store of food including preserved birds, fern root and dried fish, and fishing parties could put out at night to supplement food stored on the well-nigh impregnable promontory. An anxious moment came when one of Taoka’s scouts crept in by way of the blow holes and stole the image of Te Wera’s protecting deity. Despair swept through the pa when Taoka was seen across the river saving it triumphantly above his head. But Te Wera’s tohunga Hautu restored it to the pa, some say simply through the air, by means of a powerful karakia. Finally Taoka was forced to withdraw for want of food as the defenders had denuded the area of vegetables before his taua (war party) arrived. The pa was then abandoned, and its inhabitants settled on the banks of the Waikouaiti river.

Later, Taoka turned his attention to Mapoutahi pa to telling effect. Te Wera eventually left the area altogether and moved south ultimately to die as an old man at Stewart Island.

The most prominent reminder of the history of the peninsula is the extensive terracing on its slopes. The terraces were made to provide level house sites and living and working areas. Remains of defensive banks and ditches can also be seen, though the actual palisade lines can be found only through the scientific techniques of archaeological excavation. In many places midden is exposed (shell, bone, charcoal and stone from cooking and other activities) can be seen in cliff edges, banks and slips. All cultural and historical material including archaeological sites, midden and artefacts are protected under the Historic Places Act 1980 and may not be interfered with in any way.

The blowholes on the peninsula are attributed to a romance. A couple eloped and eventually returned, expecting forgiveness. Instead, their irate families took them to the peninsula and hurled them from the cliffs. The young girl, heavier than her husband, is said to have caused the larger blowhole, that nearest Puketeraki Beach. There are in reality not two but three blowholes, but surviving mythology does not explain the third.

The reluctant missionary: A whaling station opened at Karitane in 1837 and it was here in 1840 rather than at which is now Waikouaiti that the Rev. James Watkin (1805-86) elected to live, despite the fact that he had come from Sydney at the instigation and at the expense of Johnny Jones. The Methodist missionary, who had been praying for a return to Britain, did not relish the experience; he chose for the text of the first Christian sermon preached in Otago, “This is a fearful saying”, and when his successor, the Rev. Charles Creed arrived in 1844 Watkin greeted him with words, “Welcome, Brother Creed, welcome to Purgatory.”

Certainly there was little for Watkin to enthuse over. The settlement was a hotbed of drunkenness, immorality and violence, from which the Maori mainly suffered, and the two-roomed native whare Jones provided for him was hardly suitable for one with a wife and five children. Certainly the nauseated Watkin tried, taking a firm stand against the vices of the Pakeha and the “savage customs” of the Maori. To a degree he succeeded; mission schools were established, converts made and an elementary Maori reader prepared and published. But Watkin was never reconciled to his position and was intensely relieved to sail for Wellington, leaving his degenerate parishioners behind. Tortured by ill health, he continually doubted his own considerable ability and lamented his lack of support and the depravity of those around him. A rare moment of elation came when one of his converts at Moeraki refused to give the census-taker Shortland any information because it was the Sabbath. Of Bishop Selwyn he conceded: “I think he is a good man, as far as his church prejudices will allow.”

Sir Truby King (1857-1938): In later years the settlement blossomed as a seaside resort and owes its geographical form partly to Sir Truby King, who had no sooner built his home on the peninsula than he became fearful that the river might cut through the slender isthmus that ties it to the mainland. He would not hesitate to rouse residents on stormy nights and direct them as they slaved to carry sand and build up the manuka sand-breaks he had placed on the narrow neck. Eventually the breaks were built up to such a degree that the danger passed. King was also the moving force behind the planting of various gums and hardy deciduous trees.

King is perhaps the best known of New Zealand’s medical reformers. Son of one of the first settlers at New Plymouth, he attended university at Glasgow and returned to become Superintendent, first of Wellington Hospital and then of the Seacliff Mental Hospital. A reformer in many fields he is best remembered for his founding of the Plunket Society (named after Lord Plunket, then Governor-General) which in his lifetime saw infant mortality drop by two-thirds, from 88.8 to 30.9 per 1,000 births. It was at his Karitane home that the first Plunket baby was reared. The Royal New Zealand Society for the Health of Women and Children (to give it its full title) remains an integral part not only of the country’s public health services, with Plunket Rooms throughout New Zealand staffed with Plunket nurses trained to educate mothers in child care, but of New Zealand society itself. Its success led to an invitation to King to establish a similar organisation in Britain. On his return in 1921 he became the first Director of Child Welfare and then, until his retirement in 1927 , Inspector-General of Mental Hospitals. Karitane nurses, trained in baby care, help mothers with their children.

The phenomenal success of the Plunket Society and the worldwide acclamation that followed have overshadowed other important aspects of his work. Truby King made major contributions in many fields – nutrition, plant acclimatisation, control of coastal erosion, alcoholism, psychological medicine and medical  jurisprudence. His many achievements in the field of psychiatric medicine include dietary innovations, the establishment at Seacliff in 1898 of the country’s first “open” ward, the early development of the villa-hospital concept, and a study of the influence of dental disease on the physical and mental well-being of psychiatric patients. Change was not easily brought about and Truby King was frequently the centre of controversy, but invariably the soundness of his forcefully expressed views prevailed.

No. 31 on old hardcopy list of 113 club tramps. “Pineapple Track – Swampy Summit. Year Round”

The hills around Dunedin are superb viewpoints to see the city, coastline and ranges of inland Otago. Flagstaff is one such hill and like Mt Cargill to the north allows the walker to pass through several types of vegetation en route to the summit.

Most of the features seen from the walk have strong historic significance. Beyond Signal Hill, the site of Otakou can be seen. When the first European settlers arrived, this Maori settlement was the largest in the region. In 1817 this ‘kaika’ contained 600 very “fine houses, neatly furnished”. From 1833-1841, a whaling station was operating from here. The whalers’ township, known as Musselburgh was nearer the heads. By 1840, 250 Europeans were living around the harbour entrance. It was from Otakou that the earliest immigrants received their first supplies of fresh meat, milk, butter and vegetables. The region south to the Nuggets and inland by the Clutha to as far as the Lammerlaw Range and West Taieri was bought for European settlement of $4,800.

Almost immediately apparent from the walk is the distinctive layout of the centre of the centre of Dunedin. Charles Kettle and a party of surveyors laid out the streets in 1848, using the special features of the Scottish capital, Edinburgh as a guide. The planned settlement took its name in 1845 from the Highlander’s name for Edinburgh. The town belt, the ribbon of bush threading its way through the suburbs, cutting off the inner city from the suburbs also dates from the early surveys. Immigrants were offered land packages on or before their arrival in Otago. Each consisted of a 1/4 acre (1012 sq m) town allotment, a 10 acre 4 hectare) suburban allotment, and a 50 acre (20 hectare) rural allotment, all sold at the rate of £2 an acre ($9.60) a hectare). The town belt separated the town and suburban allotments. Most rural blocks were on the Taieri Plains.

Kettle’s name was given to Flagstaff Hill, but through common usage the term Flagstaff became accepted and superseded Mt Kettle.

As early as 1925 there was skiing on Swampy Hill and Flagstaff. Sixteen years later an exceptionally heavy snowfall convinced many of the return of very cold winters. Many Otago skiers spent several weekends clearing the hillside of stones and boulders but unfortunately for them the snow never came back.

In these early days of settlement the forests all but cut off Dunedin to the north. Long before a road was made around Mt Cargill, the track known as ‘Johnny Jones’ (the Waikouaiti whaler) track linked the Dunedin area with Waitati via Flagstaff and Swampy. In 1859 snow poles were put up along the track to guide travellers caught out in storm or mist.

A road was made between Whare Flat along the inland flank of the hill to near the saddle between Flagstaff and Swampy Hill in 1870. The settlers at Whare Flat used it to draw their supplies of timber from the bush on the other side of Flagstaff. In later years these old roads fell out of use.

The settlers, utilising a number of small sawmills, ‘cut-out’ much of the bush on the eastern flank of Swampy Hill and Flagstaff. The Pineapple Track at the northern end of Flagstaff passes through such ‘cutover’ forest. From here podocarps were milled to provide local building materials. Only an occasional remnant podocarp remains. Mahoe (whitey wood) is plentiful here while on the forest floor and tree trunks, many species of fern abound. The upper part of the track here includes totara saplings and old stunted broadleafs with twisted limbs, growing in a slightly drier soil. Hounds tongue and “hen and chicken” type ferns hang from the dead tree trunks.

The tussock on the part of the walk from the Whare Flat Road car park (known as the ‘Bullring’) is being taken over by native scrub: flax, manuka and the occasional Olearia – although these get knocked back by fires from time to time. Native orchids are common here, especially in early summer. Skylarks can be heard on this hill from sunrise to sunset.

The summit: An unobtrusive plane table helps point out the many interesting places which can be seen from here. To the north you can see the higher hill of Swampy with its buildings from aviation and scientific experiments, and to its east is Mt Cargill, topped by a TV transmitter. Further away is the city and the drowned valley of Otago Harbour with the Peninsula beyond and the sand dune suburbs of St Clair and St Kilda connecting this with the mainland.

Turning northwards, the track crosses the tussock-covered scenic reserve beyond the summit. In spring and summer, orchids and violets can be seen between the snow tussock. Boulders of volcanic rock are scattered over the hill top, some of which are clustered in lines of ‘stone stripes’ down the hillside.

The tussock grassland now largely covering the summit and upper slopes is only 2-300 years old. Before this , forest covered the entire area. Periodic fires have encouraged the tussock grassland. Snow tussock, mountain flax and Astolia are the most common native plants, while manuka is encroaching into the grassland that fire has not recently reached.

Once into the bush, the track drops through regenerating shrub-land from the signpost at the top of the Pineapple Walk. It was near this spot that in the 1920s a well-known grocer and tramper guiding parties to see the views would pause, and pass around a tin of pineapple. It became a tradition that once empty the tin would be left on a tree or fence post – giving the track the name.

From clearings on this track can be seen Ross Creek Reservoir and the city beyond, also the Mt Cargill television transmitter and the northern side of Leith Valley. Many shrubs are invading clearings from the bush edge. Fuchsia and pepperwood are common. Grazing has determined the nature of this vegetation with only the unpalatable species surviving.

The Booth Road water treatment station sits in a clearing of ornamental plants. A small round concrete tank in the pines on the left of the track halfway down  from this station is also part of the water supply scheme built before the 1950s. A tap near the edge of the bush gives cool refreshing water to the walker on his or her return.

At the Booth Road end of the walkway, the track passes through the Dunedin City Council exotic plantation. Spruce, ash, radiata pine and Douglas fir were planted over 30 years ago as part of growth experiments with these species in the area.

– From DoC hard copy information sheet.

The first settlers drew their water from the creeks and springs in the area below the Town Belt, the principal sources being the Maclaggan Street, London Street and Regent Road creeks. In 1860 the Town Board tapped a spring in High Street and erected a public pump at the Manse Street corner. Continue Reading »