26/11/2025. Highcliff, Paradise and Buskin Tracks. Grade 4. Trampers. Leaders: Clare Banks and Carol Thurlow
23 trampers left the entrance to the Highcliff Track carpark at 9.35am, knowing very hot and blustery conditions were forecasted for the day.
We made our way down the gravel road and onto the track admiring the beautifully built stone walls, although sadly some parts had fallen into disrepair.
We headed on around the headland, stopping for morning tea high above the cliffs, with a glorious view looking out sea over Boulder Beach.
We then wended our way down the hill stopping to reduce clothing layers and catch a drink, with the hot nor’wester building fast.
The bird song in the various stands of trees was just delightful to hear. At the bottom, where Paradise track joins the Highcliff Track, we regrouped beside the more recent Beattie Cottage and heard about the original Beattie family’s intriguing story.
James Beattie, who bought the farm in1863, was Irish and previously was a miner in Australia and USA. There was a shortage of young women in Dunedin at the time but that year in March, the ship ‘Arima’ arrived with 90 single ladies on board! James met Margaret Whiteside, described as a ‘religious and tidy woman’, and by June they were married. She was a dab hand at making ‘fancy butter’, winning prizes at the local A and P Show. He held a triple wedding for his son and 2 daughters on the lawn, having had 5 more daughters!
James was not averse to controversy and having introduced rabbits to his property, he was incensed to find a neighbour walking away with 5 newly shot rabbits. A tussle ensued and the matter ended up in court, which he won. Later he was not so lucky when he was judged in the court for refusing to pay a well-regarded surveyor, whose work he didn’t agree with.
We then headed steadily on up the Paradise Track, past the remains of the Beattie house, stopping often in shady spots to cool off and have a drink.
Further up, we past the Sanderson Farm, but all that is remaining is some of the stone wall and a stand of macrocarpas. The Sandersons had 7 children, with a daughter dying at 3 years old, a son in Belgium in the war and another son, after avoiding the war, succumbing to the influenza epidemic.
At the top, we heard about the Highcliff Hotel, built in 1872 but burned down in 1873. It was quickly rebuilt but the owner, Henry Fairbank was refused a publican’s license due to his wife being of ‘intemperate habits’! After several owners, it became Donaldson’s Hotel in 1889 but ceased trading in 1891 to later become a shoeing forge.
At this point, we headed up Highcliff Road, walking single file and turning off to the top of the Buskin Track. Once on the track, we found a cool shady stop for lunch about 12.30pm.
With full tummies and plenty of liquid on board, we headed down the Buskin Track rather cautiously as it had been heavily pugged up by cattle in places over the winter.
At the bottom, we met the Highcliff track again and proceeded back and up to the headland, then onwards to the carpack, arriving about 2pm, looking rather hot and bothered in varying degrees, having completed 8.75 or 10 kms, depending on whose Topo app is consulted!!
9 of the team enjoyed coffee and a natter at Nichols Garden Centre, before sloping off home for a coolish shower!!
Our very grateful thanks to Graham T for his help with the recce and on the day, and to Esther. Links for further reading:
Carol and Clare
Link to background information and earlier tramps and hikes in the same area.