Portobello, Clarks, Sheppards, McArthny, Varleys Hills – Taieri Recreational Tramping Club

Distance Portobello from car-park: 32 km.

Portobello – Information and Trips Library

13. 8/11/2023. Hikers. Varleys Hill-Hereweka Track. Grade 2.5. $9. 32km. Leaders: Jan Butcher/Jenny Finnerty

22 hikers set off on a cloudy morning for the Portobello Community carpark.

We Gathered At The Portobello Community Centre Phil — *We Gathered at The Portobello Community Centre (Photo & Caption Phil)*

We struck light misty rain on the drive down the bay so decided to walk the Hereweka Track first and carry on from there depending on the weather. It was certainly a pinch getting up the hill for this ‘tail end Charlie’, but once at the top we stopped for a quick morning tea break and then it was a comfortable down hill walk on a nice grassy track.

Morning Tea At The Top Of Hereweka Track Helen — *Morning tea at the top of Hereweka Track (Photo & Helen)*

Down Into Portobello Helen — *Down into Portobello (Photo & Caption Helen)*

Looking At The Lovely View Helen — *Looking at the lovely view (Photo & Caption Helen)*

Which Way Now Trail Boss Phil — *Which way now trail boss? (Photo & Caption Phil)*

Once we hit the bottom of the track there was no rain and we continued on Sheppard Road to Hoopers Inlet. We continued along Cape Saunders Road, stopping at the junction to enjoy our lunch on grassy verges in lovely sunshine.

Lunch in the Sun 1 Helen — *Lunch in the sun (Photo & Caption Helen)*

When the sun disappeared we moved right along looping back around Hoopers Inlet, passing the Hoopers Inlet Hall and keeping on this road until it met up with Allans Beach Road which took us back to the carpark.

He Long And Winding Road Phil — *The long and winding road (Photo & Caption Phil)*

Penny For Your Thought Phil — *Penny for your thought (Photo & Caption Phil)*

Distance covered 11ks. Refreshments were enjoyed at The Cove in Portobello before homeward bound to Brighton and Mosgiel.

12. 9/11/2022. Hereweka Track. Leaders Jenny and Julie

19 hikers met at the Portobello Community Park on a lovely spring day. After morning tea and toileting we set off up Allans Beach Road. At the top we stopped to look at the fab view looking out over the inlet.

9 Nov Portbello Starting out Noi — *Photo Noi*

9 Nov Portbello View over the hill. Breathtaking. Helen — *View over the hill. Breathtaking. Photo & caption Helen*

We carried on down the road and turned left around the inlet onto Shepards Road.

9 Nov Walking along Hoopers inlet Noi — *Photo Noi*

Had a bit of a wander through the Hoopers Inlet Memorial Park where some went Bush for a toilet stop while some wondered whether the bunnies were dead or not.

9 Nov Portbello Hoopers Inlet for lunch Helen — *Hoopers Inlet Hall for lunch. Photo & caption Helen*

All in all, it was a big 2-hour loop! After lunch we trekked along to the Hereweka Track which is a good slog on a nice track to finish our hike off with.

9 Nov Portbello Top of Hereweka Track Helen — *Top of Hereweka Track. Photo & caption Helen*

We all met for refreshments at “The Cove” in Portobello. It was a lovely day for a 11km walk.
Jenny and Julie.

11. 13/04/2022. Hikers. Hereweka Track. M. Leaders: Jenny and Alex

Hidden portobello sign — *Hidden Portobello sign*
*Caption and photo John*

After meeting up with the Townies on the perfect day, we parked our cars at the Portobello Reserve/Skateboard Park and had our morning tea.

skatepark toilets mural — *Skatepark toilets mural*
*Caption and photo John*

leaving the cars — *Leaving the cars Caption and photo John*

We then walked along Allans Beach Road to the Hoopers Inlet Junction. What I thought was going to be a 50 minute walk was only about 20 minutes(I don’t know where I got that info?) Thinking on our “feet” we turned left around the inlet onto Sheppards Road. We stumbled upon a picnic spot called Hoopers Inlet Recreation Reserve for a wee look then carried on up the road to Papanui Inlet Road then onto Cape Saunders Road and back to Allans Beach Road. (Are you keeping up?)

Leaders command attnetion — *Leaders command attention Caption and photo John*

In fact it was a good loop walk. Thanks Jim Finnie. We stopped off at Hoopers Inlet hall for a nice leisurely lunch on their deck.

*Lunch at Hoopers Inlet Hall Caption and photo John*

After lunch we carried on along to the road leading on to the Hereweka Track. Well worth it as its a lovely bush walk. A good short and sharp uphill climb at the base of the Harbour Cone coming out at the camping ground. Two loops in one day!!!

All up our team of 8 men and 8 women walked 10.5 km. Then it was off to Nichols for a well deserved coffee. Cheers Jenny and Alex

PS. Thanks Pam for the suggestion. I think it will be a keeper.

10. 9/5/2018. Hikers. Varleys Hill. M. Leaders: Pam and Jay.

Lunching on top of Varleys hill. (Ian pic.)

9. 10/1/2018. Trampers. Varleys Hill. M. Leader: Janine.

While the weather report was forecasting showers, my barometer just continued to climb towards ‘dry’ – so we had another rain free day which provided ideal conditions for our first tramp of the year .An eager 15 individuals set off from Portobello across farmland where we stopped for morning tea at an old milking shed site, allowing those mechanically minded to study remains.

Continuing on we passed both live bunnies and dead ones! Then ventured back onto a gravel road leading us to Papanui Inlet,

Towards Papanui Inlet. (Helen pic and caption.)

such a busy piece of road – we stepped aside for one car! We detoured from the road into private farmland and began the uphill climb through the bush protected by a QE2 covenant.

The traditional stone walls in this area are always amazing but the stone fortress around the top of Varleys Hill never ceases to astound all and constantly query ‘who and why?’ But dispite rigorous research into the history of this block of land and it’s history, present owners have been unable to answer these questions.

After lunch within this fortress overlooking the amazing views of Harbour Cone, Papanui Inlet. Hoopers Inlet and the Pacific ocean, most tried to detach bidi-bids from backpacks, socks, jerseys, gaiters etc. This proved a futile exercise as the tramp down the other side

Pretty Ragwort. (Helen pic and caption.)

of Varleys Hill proved to be a further tangle of this weed and most were unable to rid themselves of this attachment untill we reached the Hoopers Inlet Hall.

After another short road walk we cimbed up and over the ‘Leith’Track (I think thats what the sign referred to} back to Portobello.A lovely walk in mostly warm overcast conditions – covering just over 10 km – and finishing up at MacAndrew Bay for leisurely coffee/ ice cream and conversation. – Janine.

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8. 8/2/2017. Hikers. Portobello, Sheppards Road, Varleys Hill, Leith Track. M. Pam and Dawn.

We parked the cars in Allans Beach Road. 33 people set off and 3 people went as far as they could cope and went back to Portobello for lunch. We walked from Allans Beach Road to Hoopers Inlet and turned into Sheppard Rd where we had morning tea on side of road. We then walked along Sheppard Rd turning right at Papanui Inlet Road. At Parkers property, 150 Papanui Rd, we walked up their driveway to start of track up to Varleys Hill.

Varleys Hill driveway. (Clive pic and caption.)

Quite a steep climb up to top where there was a lot of very large stones forming a circle. We had lunch there …

Lunch among Varleys Hill biddibids. (Ian pic and caption.)

… and enjoyed magnificent views of sea and hills.

After lunch we went down through the track (heaps of biddi biddis that we had ben warned about) …

Finding the path. (Clive pic and caption.)

… to Hoopers Inlet Hall, where some group photos were taken.

Obligatory photo at Hoopers Inlet Hall. (Ian pic and caption.)

21 people went back to Portobello via the Leith track and 9 people chose to return walking back via Allans Beach Road. We arrived back at Portobello at 2.30 where we enjoyed a coffee at the lovely café. A very enjoyable day. – Dawn

7. 9/3/2016. Trampers. Portobello, Clarks, Sheppards and Varleys Hills. Medium. Leader: -.

Once again we had a very nice day for our tramp around Clarks – Varleys Hill at Portobello. And it was another opportunity to show this area to some who had not been there before.
This is not a long tramp, so the pace for the day was a bit slower than we normally travel at, but it does give time to absorb the scenery.
We had to fill-in a form for Brendon at the first gate, but after discussing this with him over the phone when I was seeking permission, it was no problem, & only took a minute to fill out the necessary bits. We then had morning tea in the normal place by the willows, & made our way up the hill past the “twisted” tree, & through the hard to open gate [ which thankfully was already open] at the top of the hill.

Scene of Portobello from Clarks Hill (Helen pic) — Scene of Portobello from Sheppards Hill (Helen pic)

On reaching Weir Rd. we travelled down here to Papanui Inlet, & along the road to the private driveway leading up to Varleys Hill. Here we stopped to retrieve an information sheet from the letterbox, that the owners had left for us. This sheet describes the work they have carried out, & some history of the property. I will forward this sheet to Ian for possible addition to the website.

Some made hard work of the climb up to the top “ring of stone” where we had lunch among the bidi bids !!

Hoopers Inlet from Varleys Hill (Helen pic)

Then it was off down the other side of the hill following a very indistinct track, to the turn off through the bush, which leads down to the Hoopers Inlet Hall.
Another lengthy road walk followed, till we reached Leith track end which goes over the hill back to Portobello. We stopped at the top of this before going down to the cars.

Once back at the cars, it was decide to continue the “coffee club” tradition, by calling in at the Macandrew Bay cafe for a chat, before moving off home.

The day was enjoyed by all, & we only had one problem with one member using new boots, & getting a blister on a heel, which was ably seen to by our nursing member.

Walked 9.6km
4km/h
climbed 376mtrs. – Ken.

6. 23/4/2014. Trampers. Portobello, Clarks, Sheppards and Varleys Hills. Medium.

The tramp around Clarks, Varley Hill area is one I have now done quite a few times, but always enjoy, especially when the other members of the party have never been there before, which was the case on this occasion.
The weather was not looking good when I got up in the morning, it was raining gently, but as the day progressed it got somewhat better, & we had a fine day for our walk, with hardly any wind, & mild temperatures. The grass in the farm paddocks was a bit wet, but not too long so we all stayed dry the whole day.
We had morning tea in the willows on the first farm, & lunch at the top of Varleys Hill…

… in the ring of rocks, after having a good chat with the lady of the property before we climbed up through the bush to the top. Lunch was a bit early at 11: 40, but that gave use the option of getting back to the car early, or just loafing around to fill in the time. As it turned out, we did a bit of both, before we took off down the hill to the Hoopers Inlet Hall. Then it was the lengthy walk around the road to the track leading up & over the hill, back to Portobello, which we reached at about 12:50pm. This allowed us [ the No 2 coffee club ] to stop at MacAndrew Bay for our ‘fix’ & a chat before heading home. – Ken

5. 25/5/2011. Trampers. Portobello, Clarks, Sheppards and Varleys Hills. Medium.

GPS of clockwise-tramped route, courtesy Ken. Portobello, Clarks, Sheppards, Varley Hills and Leith track over saddle back to Portobello.

Looking over to Quarantine Point – again (v. below)

4. 16/6/2010. Trampers. Portobello, Clarks, Sheppards and Varleys Hills. Medium. Leader: George

Looking out over Quarantine Point from Clarks Hill

Descent from Varleys Hill ending at Hoopers Inlet Hall

Track sign of route over saddle to Portebello

A local told us distant object on hill was a Buddhist Temple

3. 25/3/2009. Trampers. Portobello, Clarks, Sheppards, McArthny and Varleys Hills. Medium. Leaders: George, Lex

A pleasant, mild, windless day with clear views to both sides of the peninsula were ideal for the 6 who set out to conquer Varley’s Hill, etc. We parked in the centre of Portobello and then followed Harington Pt Rd for a short distance before ascending lush paddocks (with a few good mushrooms) to skirt the slopes of Clarks and Sheppards Hills which provided good views to Port Chalmers at the morning tea stop.

Tea break. Sheppards Hill — Tea Break. Lex, Sabina, Ria, George

We crossed Weir Rd at its summit and headed towards McArthny Hill. Inadvertent deviation led us to short-circuit the circumnavigation of said hill, (in other words, we took a shortcut) and leader George directed our paths east around the hill and down to Dick Rd on the Papanui Inlet.

Turning right, we passed the Sheppard Rd turnoff, with George trying the mudflats as the tide was well out,
but soon becoming “an old stick-in-the-mud”, according to Bob. We turned off into the driveway up to Varleys Farm.

Track — Varley’s Farm driveway. Ria, Sabina, Lex, George.

At the farmhouse, we had another debate about the route, which led to some getting to the summit easily and others, “biddibid and bracken bushbashing” to reach it. At the top is NZ’s own ‘stone circle’ a dry stone wall with a ‘gateway’. One imagines it would have been used as a sheep pen, but over lunch, the talk was of ancient barrows and tombs and mysterious rituals. The plaque on one of the stones stating it was a QE II National Trust Protected Open Space added no further explanation.

Varley's Hill — Papanui Inlet and Sandymount from Varley’s Hill

Stone wall — Lunch on Varley’s Hill. Ken, George, Ria, Sabina, Lex

A pleasant descent on the other side of the hill

Harbour Cone & reflection coming down from Varley Hill

(past a mysterious, bush-surrounded, irregularly-constructed platform that no one could explain) towards Hoopers Inlet Hall led us to Allans Beach Rd, passing the other end of Sheppard Rd and thence into Hooper’s Inlet Rd.

To conclude the tramp, we turned into a farm road by some picturesque letterboxes,

Some great views, good terrain and interesting and varied scenes along the way.

Thanks to George for getting the landowners’ permissions, and the leadership from Lex and George. Bob M

2. 25/6/2008 Clarks, Sheppards and Varleys Hills. Leader: George

The scheduled tramp for the Hindon Pipe Line was cancelled due to 13cm of frozen snow in the area. Instead, under George’s leadership (co-leader Ria was too ill to come on the day), a small band of 5 trampers met at the foot of Hereweka St, Portobello for a previously perforce cancelled tramp. Here conditions were much milder than those up at the Pipe Line would have been, but there was still a cold northerly wind to wrap up against. We set off along the Harington Pt Rd for a short distance before turning up through a gate to skirt the slopes of Clarks and Sheppards Hills. A track further up led us through several gates. En route, we paused to admire the deeply furrowed trunk of a Ngaio tree, looking for all the world like a mass of thick entwining vines.

We eventually arrived at the summit of Weir Rd where McArthny Hill loomed directly ahead of us. George elected, for time’s and effort’s sake, to bypass that part of the tramp and take us down to Dick Rd on the Papanui Inlet. Turning right, we passed the Sheppard Rd turnoff and a short distance ahead reached the steep driveway up to Varleys Farm. We bypassed the farm up a track on the left stepped where necessary to reach the summit of Varleys Hill. Here we found a circular dry stone wall with a plaque on one of the stones stating it was a QE II National Trust Protected Open Space. We late lunched sheltered by wall and bush, enjoying spendid views all around.

Descending the other side of the hill we found ourselves at the Hoopers Inlet Hall

Hoopers Inlet Hall. George, Ian, Lex, Ken.

where we set off to walk along the Allans Beach Rd, passing the other end of Sheppard Rd.

It was here the highlight of the day occurred.

A frolicsome young seal swam up to us, reaching the stone wall of the road and looking right up at us. We remained there, fascinated at its twistings and turnings, for a considerable time.

It capped off its performance by steaming away across the water at a great speed, the water parting and streaming away on either side.

To conclude the tramp, we turned into a track roughly paralleling the sealed road turn-off to Portobello and on its left, which took us over the hill to join the top end of Hereweka St again and so down to the cars, passing a surprisingly well equipped Village Tourist Park and a sleek coastguard rescue vessel.

A great introduction to some Peninsula hills our club hasn’t experienced before. Thanks to George for getting the landowners’ permissions at a moments’s notice and providing this excellent alterative for the day. – Ian

1. 25/4/2008. Trampers. Portobello, Varleys Hill. Easy. Leaders: George, Ria.

3 thoughts on “Portobello, Clarks, Sheppards, McArthny, Varleys Hills”

Hazel says:

June 22, 2010 at 5:54 pm

Beautiful pictures!

Steve Cutler says:

November 21, 2023 at 3:36 pm

kia ora
we own the small farm at 12 Hoopers inlet road, the route from top of Hereweka street in Portobello reaches Hoopers Inlet at our gate. Next time you are planning trips out this way we would be delighted if you used the new track system, developed with the Harbour cone trust and other local interests, that crosses our property on north side of Harbour cone and accesses harbour cone tracks. This track/route is well marked and allows for a climb of the peak, or a round the peak walk, or a slightly less arduous loop mostly in bush up through our property and down through Peter Cooke and Anna Moore’s property. Though not officially open yet if the trip leader phoned up before hand I would be very happy to provide quidance/map/permission to enjoy this ‘mini-tramp’.
Steve Cutler and Brigitte Kammlein 03 4780055.

1. Ross says:
  
  November 26, 2023 at 9:47 am
  
  Thanks Steve. This sounds interesting, and with lots of possibilities. I’ll bring this to the attention of our trip planners. And take your point about all users walking on these tracks doing so at their own risk. Cheers, Ross

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3 thoughts on “Portobello, Clarks, Sheppards, McArthny, Varleys Hills”

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